1 00:01:02,604 --> 00:01:08,485 ♪ I took a ride ♪ Through this beautiful world ♪ 2 00:01:08,527 --> 00:01:14,115 ♪ Felt the cool rain ♪ On my shoulder 3 00:01:14,157 --> 00:01:20,121 ♪ Found something good ♪ In this beautiful world 4 00:01:20,163 --> 00:01:24,585 ♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪ 5 00:01:26,211 --> 00:01:29,130 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 6 00:01:29,172 --> 00:01:32,133 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 7 00:01:32,175 --> 00:01:35,136 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la 8 00:01:35,178 --> 00:01:40,183 ♪ Sha la, la, la, la, la, la 9 00:01:54,197 --> 00:01:55,950 ♪ 10 00:01:55,991 --> 00:01:56,992 Do you smell that? 11 00:02:00,203 --> 00:02:03,791 Motorbike exhaust, fish sauce, incense... 12 00:02:05,834 --> 00:02:09,692 The faraway smell of something... is... is that pork 13 00:02:09,693 --> 00:02:11,172 grilling over charcoal? 14 00:02:11,214 --> 00:02:14,384 ♪ 15 00:02:16,261 --> 00:02:19,848 Vietnam, it could be no place else. 16 00:02:21,433 --> 00:02:24,645 ♪ 17 00:02:35,906 --> 00:02:37,032 Listen to me. 18 00:02:37,074 --> 00:02:38,408 Listen to me. 19 00:02:38,450 --> 00:02:42,203 There is no other way to see this city, Hanoi, 20 00:02:42,245 --> 00:02:45,373 than from a motorbike or a scooter. 21 00:02:45,415 --> 00:02:49,003 To do otherwise would be to miss it all. 22 00:02:52,631 --> 00:02:55,216 ♪ 23 00:02:55,258 --> 00:02:56,802 -Whoa! 24 00:02:56,844 --> 00:02:59,638 ♪ 25 00:03:03,266 --> 00:03:06,020 It is one of the great pleasures of my life 26 00:03:06,061 --> 00:03:07,813 to join the river of people 27 00:03:07,855 --> 00:03:10,024 rushing through the streets. 28 00:03:28,667 --> 00:03:31,753 ♪ 29 00:03:42,305 --> 00:03:47,268 Vietnam, it grabs you and doesn't let you go. 30 00:03:47,310 --> 00:03:50,480 Once you love it, you love it forever. 31 00:03:52,315 --> 00:03:54,526 I've been coming here since 2000, 32 00:03:54,568 --> 00:03:56,653 the first time I'd been in this part of the world, 33 00:03:56,695 --> 00:03:58,906 and it's held a special place in my heart 34 00:03:58,947 --> 00:04:02,159 and my imagination since. 35 00:04:02,201 --> 00:04:03,869 I keep coming back. 36 00:04:03,911 --> 00:04:05,286 I have to. 37 00:04:05,328 --> 00:04:08,498 ♪ 38 00:04:18,717 --> 00:04:21,344 Vietnam has changed since last time I was here. 39 00:04:21,386 --> 00:04:23,180 It's changing every minute. 40 00:04:29,811 --> 00:04:34,691 But some things, for now anyway, remain the same. 41 00:04:34,733 --> 00:04:38,195 Important things like this stuff. 42 00:04:38,237 --> 00:04:39,988 That's gonna be good. 43 00:04:40,030 --> 00:04:42,199 Bun oc, first meal in Hanoi, 44 00:04:42,241 --> 00:04:43,972 and it's something they do here 45 00:04:43,973 --> 00:04:45,702 better than anywhere else. 46 00:04:45,744 --> 00:04:48,413 Okay, I'm officially in Hanoi now. 47 00:04:51,041 --> 00:04:54,335 Mmm, magic. 48 00:04:54,377 --> 00:04:57,193 A spicy, wonderful broth with tomatoes and herb 49 00:04:57,194 --> 00:04:59,591 and noodles and fresh snails. 50 00:04:59,633 --> 00:05:01,135 Plump and delicious. 51 00:05:01,176 --> 00:05:02,803 Look at those beauties. 52 00:05:02,844 --> 00:05:06,347 Come to me, plump, little love muscle. 53 00:05:08,183 --> 00:05:09,434 Mmm. 54 00:05:11,394 --> 00:05:14,606 Hanoi, capital city of Vietnam. 55 00:05:14,648 --> 00:05:17,192 Seven and a half million people live here. 56 00:05:17,234 --> 00:05:18,586 In the winter, it's chilly and damp. 57 00:05:18,610 --> 00:05:22,363 In the summer, hot, humid, subtropical. 58 00:05:22,405 --> 00:05:25,867 The boulevards and many of the buildings are French. 59 00:05:27,035 --> 00:05:31,539 But its heart and soul is always, always Vietnamese. 60 00:05:34,793 --> 00:05:37,838 Americans coming here as tourists for the first time, 61 00:05:37,879 --> 00:05:39,380 especially veterans of the war, 62 00:05:39,422 --> 00:05:42,759 are shocked by how friendly the place is. 63 00:05:42,801 --> 00:05:46,013 People are genuinely happy to see you. 64 00:05:46,054 --> 00:05:47,764 ♪ 65 00:05:47,806 --> 00:05:51,143 This is Hanoi's Old Quarter, but it's looking less 66 00:05:51,144 --> 00:05:52,435 and less old these days. 67 00:05:52,477 --> 00:05:54,771 Man, this area's changed though. 68 00:05:54,813 --> 00:05:58,775 I mean, the Irish/Czech- themed pub next door? 69 00:05:58,817 --> 00:06:00,401 ♪ 70 00:06:00,443 --> 00:06:03,030 Vietnam is a young country. 71 00:06:03,071 --> 00:06:06,033 Almost half of Vietnamese are under the age of 30. 72 00:06:06,074 --> 00:06:09,515 Fewer every year even remember what they call here 73 00:06:09,516 --> 00:06:11,412 the American War. 74 00:06:13,623 --> 00:06:15,416 Those years were a defining time 75 00:06:15,458 --> 00:06:18,045 for just about everyone, Vietnamese or American, 76 00:06:18,086 --> 00:06:19,420 who lived through them. 77 00:06:19,462 --> 00:06:21,006 And though there are still a lot 78 00:06:21,048 --> 00:06:23,529 of conflicted feelings back home, for most Vietnamese 79 00:06:23,530 --> 00:06:27,221 these days, the war has become an abstraction, 80 00:06:27,262 --> 00:06:28,889 not even a memory. 81 00:06:30,473 --> 00:06:32,600 Vietnam is still a poor nation, 82 00:06:32,642 --> 00:06:34,686 but the standard of living has improved a lot 83 00:06:34,728 --> 00:06:37,168 with the relaxing of hardline 84 00:06:37,169 --> 00:06:39,607 communist economic policies. 85 00:06:39,649 --> 00:06:42,610 More and more foreign tourists every year. 86 00:06:42,652 --> 00:06:46,447 Western chains inevitable are everywhere. 87 00:06:46,489 --> 00:06:49,450 And President Obama is visiting for the first time, 88 00:06:49,492 --> 00:06:52,246 taking another step on the long path 89 00:06:52,287 --> 00:06:54,039 toward normalizing relations 90 00:06:54,081 --> 00:06:55,249 between the two countries. 91 00:06:55,290 --> 00:06:56,771 That is good. 92 00:06:56,772 --> 00:06:58,252 Ooh, hot. 93 00:06:58,293 --> 00:07:01,046 Ooh, I hit that chili hard. 94 00:07:28,531 --> 00:07:30,491 - Nice to meet you. - Yes. 95 00:07:30,533 --> 00:07:32,369 - It's such a pleasure. 96 00:07:32,370 --> 00:07:34,371 - Oh, and we have -a beer ready to go, great. 97 00:07:32,411 --> 00:07:34,371 - Yes. 98 00:07:34,413 --> 00:07:37,498 So we're doing by bottle, or we're going to pour it 99 00:07:35,747 --> 00:07:37,498 in a glass? 100 00:07:37,540 --> 00:07:39,376 How would you do it if I wasn't here? 101 00:07:39,418 --> 00:07:41,128 - I would pour it in the glass. - Okay. 102 00:07:41,169 --> 00:07:43,547 In Vietnam, particularly in the North, it would be 103 00:07:43,548 --> 00:07:45,506 very improper for a woman to drink 104 00:07:45,548 --> 00:07:47,402 - straight from the bottle. - Oh, really? Oh, really? 105 00:07:47,426 --> 00:07:49,510 - Yeah. - Okay, well, I'm glad I know this now. 106 00:07:49,552 --> 00:07:50,511 Cheers. 107 00:07:50,553 --> 00:07:53,681 Thao is an Eisenhower Fellow and a Fulbright scholar. 108 00:07:53,723 --> 00:07:56,351 She's devoted her career to help strengthen the bonds 109 00:07:56,393 --> 00:07:58,519 between Vietnam and the US. 110 00:07:58,561 --> 00:08:01,106 Today, we drove to the outskirts of Hanoi. 111 00:08:01,148 --> 00:08:02,336 - Uh-hmm? 112 00:08:02,337 --> 00:08:03,524 - Cranes, tall buildings. 113 00:08:03,566 --> 00:08:05,402 People moving from the country to the city? 114 00:08:05,444 --> 00:08:06,570 - Uh-hmm? 115 00:08:06,571 --> 00:08:09,530 - Marc Jacobs, Prada, I mean, this is 116 00:08:07,737 --> 00:08:09,530 a very young country now. 117 00:08:09,572 --> 00:08:11,408 Oh, very much a young nation. 118 00:08:11,450 --> 00:08:14,786 They like to eat the Kentucky Fried Chicken. 119 00:08:14,828 --> 00:08:16,267 They like to spend a lot 120 00:08:16,268 --> 00:08:17,705 of their time on the internet. 121 00:08:17,747 --> 00:08:21,793 The history of our country is a history of war. 122 00:08:21,835 --> 00:08:24,421 We had a thousand years under the Chinese, 123 00:08:24,463 --> 00:08:27,424 and then we had eighty years under the French, 124 00:08:27,466 --> 00:08:28,716 and then the Japanese came in, 125 00:08:28,758 --> 00:08:32,971 and when the American left finally in 1975, 126 00:08:33,013 --> 00:08:39,144 we got involved with Cambodia, so we only have peace 127 00:08:39,186 --> 00:08:41,355 since 1989. 128 00:08:41,396 --> 00:08:43,564 Just in the matter of a few decades, 129 00:08:43,606 --> 00:08:46,151 the entire population will be those 130 00:08:46,193 --> 00:08:47,568 without any war experience. 131 00:08:47,610 --> 00:08:49,570 And that's a great thing. 132 00:08:49,612 --> 00:08:51,365 And what are we eating today? 133 00:08:51,406 --> 00:08:52,949 Well, we are going to have a banh cuon. 134 00:08:52,991 --> 00:08:54,972 - And that means? 135 00:08:54,973 --> 00:08:56,953 - Rice roll, very thin. 136 00:08:56,995 --> 00:08:58,288 - Like a crepe? 137 00:08:58,289 --> 00:08:59,580 - Yes, it's like a crepe. 138 00:08:59,622 --> 00:09:03,584 And inside, ground, minced pork and wood ear mushroom. 139 00:09:03,626 --> 00:09:05,003 Ah. 140 00:09:05,045 --> 00:09:07,588 ♪ 141 00:09:07,630 --> 00:09:11,426 And you dip it in, and there you go. 142 00:09:14,637 --> 00:09:16,431 Mmm. 143 00:09:16,473 --> 00:09:18,266 Oh, that's very good. 144 00:09:18,308 --> 00:09:22,020 Everything we do internationally, someone refers back 145 00:09:22,021 --> 00:09:23,604 to the Vietnam experience. 146 00:09:23,646 --> 00:09:25,606 You know, "Let's not do that again," or... 147 00:09:25,648 --> 00:09:27,233 -Let's not repeat Vietnam. 148 00:09:27,234 --> 00:09:30,195 - But I find it interesting that the people 149 00:09:30,237 --> 00:09:35,033 who had perhaps the most painful experience 150 00:09:35,075 --> 00:09:38,286 were among the first to reach out. 151 00:09:38,328 --> 00:09:39,638 - I think the John McCain story... - Yes. 152 00:09:39,662 --> 00:09:42,623 Is particularly interesting because here's a guy 153 00:09:42,665 --> 00:09:45,626 who had an atrocious experience here in prison, 154 00:09:45,668 --> 00:09:49,047 and yet he has been among the most vocal supporters 155 00:09:49,089 --> 00:09:51,216 of normalizing relations. 156 00:09:51,258 --> 00:09:53,468 It took several trips to Vietnam, 157 00:09:53,510 --> 00:09:56,263 and so he could see Vietnam in a different light. 158 00:09:56,304 --> 00:09:58,432 It's no longer a war. 159 00:09:58,473 --> 00:09:59,891 It's a country with people. 160 00:09:59,933 --> 00:10:02,436 Have you been out with returning veterans from... 161 00:10:02,477 --> 00:10:04,229 Oh, yes, all the time. 162 00:10:04,271 --> 00:10:06,606 Do they often want to go to the area 163 00:10:06,607 --> 00:10:07,648 that they served? 164 00:10:07,690 --> 00:10:09,650 - Oh, yes. 165 00:10:07,690 --> 00:10:11,236 - Do they often even meet with the people they fought? 166 00:10:11,278 --> 00:10:12,862 - Yes. 167 00:10:12,863 --> 00:10:14,364 - B-52 pilots come to the areas 168 00:10:14,365 --> 00:10:15,823 they unloaded their bombs? 169 00:10:15,865 --> 00:10:16,824 Yes. 170 00:10:16,866 --> 00:10:19,244 ♪ 171 00:10:19,286 --> 00:10:20,661 What is that experience like? 172 00:10:20,703 --> 00:10:24,249 What do you see when they come? 173 00:10:24,291 --> 00:10:29,045 Extremely emotional, extremely emotional. 174 00:10:29,087 --> 00:10:32,507 ♪ 175 00:10:34,593 --> 00:10:37,262 People burst into tears. 176 00:10:37,304 --> 00:10:42,058 "The memory I kept of you 45 years ago was an enemy." 177 00:10:42,100 --> 00:10:45,479 "I did anything and everything to protect my life 178 00:10:45,520 --> 00:10:48,689 and to protect the people in my platoon." 179 00:10:49,732 --> 00:10:52,152 "But today, when I see you again 180 00:10:52,193 --> 00:10:55,280 not as an enemy, as a person." 181 00:10:55,322 --> 00:10:57,698 Everything just disappear. 182 00:10:57,740 --> 00:11:00,827 All the bad feeling disappear, and now 183 00:11:00,828 --> 00:11:02,078 "Oh, are you married?" 184 00:11:02,120 --> 00:11:03,722 You know, "How many children do you have?" 185 00:11:03,746 --> 00:11:05,706 You know, "What are you up to?" 186 00:11:06,749 --> 00:11:11,233 Their life turn into a new chapter, and this chapter 187 00:11:11,234 --> 00:11:12,713 is a good chapter. 188 00:11:18,178 --> 00:11:21,598 [woman speaking Vietnamese over PA] 189 00:11:24,434 --> 00:11:28,188 Hanoi in the morning, the usual high-pitched whine 190 00:11:28,229 --> 00:11:29,981 of thousands of motorbikes. 191 00:11:31,566 --> 00:11:34,548 People and the things they carry coming out to work, 192 00:11:34,549 --> 00:11:37,113 to set up shop, the sound of commerce... 193 00:11:38,781 --> 00:11:42,681 Of a wildly free market economy in a system 194 00:11:42,682 --> 00:11:44,579 that's decidedly not. 195 00:11:45,955 --> 00:11:49,459 ♪ 196 00:11:54,255 --> 00:11:56,966 Ohh! 197 00:11:57,008 --> 00:11:58,759 Hey! 198 00:11:58,801 --> 00:12:00,386 -Whoo! 199 00:12:00,387 --> 00:12:01,971 - Hey! Hey! Hey! Hey! 200 00:12:02,013 --> 00:12:04,328 -Hey! Hey! 201 00:12:04,329 --> 00:12:06,643 - [woman sings in native language] 202 00:12:06,685 --> 00:12:10,813 When I first came here, it was Tai Chi at dawn, 203 00:12:10,855 --> 00:12:12,731 and that's still here. 204 00:12:14,192 --> 00:12:15,610 But there's also this. 205 00:12:15,652 --> 00:12:18,154 ♪ 206 00:12:19,822 --> 00:12:21,032 -Good to see you. 207 00:12:21,033 --> 00:12:22,242 - It's nice to see you too. 208 00:12:22,283 --> 00:12:23,802 - This is An, my friend. - Nice to meet you. 209 00:12:23,826 --> 00:12:25,786 She's also my Zumba instructor. 210 00:12:25,828 --> 00:12:26,787 Ah. 211 00:12:26,829 --> 00:12:28,747 No Zumba for me. 212 00:12:30,291 --> 00:12:31,834 Breakfast, though, sounds good. 213 00:12:31,876 --> 00:12:33,524 How often a week do you think 214 00:12:33,525 --> 00:12:35,212 the average person cooks, and how often 215 00:12:35,213 --> 00:12:36,797 do they eat out? 216 00:12:36,839 --> 00:12:38,466 Mostly we just cook at home for dinner 217 00:12:38,508 --> 00:12:40,385 because that's the only meal in the day 218 00:12:40,427 --> 00:12:42,429 that everybody can be together. 219 00:12:42,470 --> 00:12:45,848 But for other meals, normally we eat out. 220 00:12:48,851 --> 00:12:51,854 ♪ 221 00:12:51,896 --> 00:12:53,814 Whoo! 222 00:12:56,651 --> 00:12:57,985 I meet my old friend Ha 223 00:12:58,027 --> 00:13:00,447 on the edge of the Old Quarter, a place known 224 00:13:00,448 --> 00:13:01,615 as Cussing Noodles. 225 00:13:01,656 --> 00:13:02,841 This is my favorite, favorite restaurant. 226 00:13:02,865 --> 00:13:04,618 - This place? - Yes. 227 00:13:04,659 --> 00:13:06,661 The name comes from the owner, this lady, 228 00:13:06,703 --> 00:13:10,415 known for the free and frank way she communicates 229 00:13:08,496 --> 00:13:10,415 with her customers. 230 00:13:10,457 --> 00:13:11,645 -I hear she yells at people. 231 00:13:11,646 --> 00:13:12,833 -Yes. 232 00:13:15,295 --> 00:13:16,837 What are you standing there for? 233 00:13:16,879 --> 00:13:19,466 If you're going to order, hurry up! 234 00:13:19,507 --> 00:13:21,444 I want the vermicelli with tongue and ground pork. 235 00:13:21,468 --> 00:13:22,843 I don't have that. 236 00:13:22,885 --> 00:13:24,845 If you like ground pork go to the market, 237 00:13:24,887 --> 00:13:26,222 they've got lots of it. 238 00:13:26,264 --> 00:13:28,849 If you go to her counter and order something 239 00:13:28,891 --> 00:13:32,853 and then you indecisive like, "Oh, can I have these?" 240 00:13:32,895 --> 00:13:35,856 "Oh, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, maybe I have 241 00:13:34,314 --> 00:13:35,856 these instead," 242 00:13:35,898 --> 00:13:37,900 she's like, "I don't have lots of time for you, 243 00:13:37,942 --> 00:13:40,654 so just get out of here." 244 00:13:40,695 --> 00:13:42,447 - Really? - Yeah. 245 00:13:42,489 --> 00:13:46,451 It's best if you just go home and eat. 246 00:13:46,493 --> 00:13:48,869 And what's the specialty of the house here? 247 00:13:48,911 --> 00:13:50,664 "Bun chin zou." 248 00:13:50,705 --> 00:13:51,890 "Chin zou" means pig knuckles. 249 00:13:51,914 --> 00:13:53,458 - Pig knuckle? - Pig knuckles. 250 00:13:53,500 --> 00:13:54,875 We know that's gonna be good. 251 00:13:54,917 --> 00:13:57,316 You put up with the abuse for this glorious, 252 00:13:57,317 --> 00:14:00,881 steaming bowl of rice noodles with spicy chilies, 253 00:14:00,923 --> 00:14:02,487 a rich, hearty, porky broth 254 00:14:02,488 --> 00:14:04,051 with pig's knuckle and snout. 255 00:14:04,093 --> 00:14:06,887 It's the only item on the menu, and it's good. 256 00:14:06,929 --> 00:14:07,993 - You know taro? 257 00:14:07,994 --> 00:14:09,056 - Yes. Ah. 258 00:14:09,098 --> 00:14:11,559 So this is the stem - of the taro plant. 259 00:14:10,350 --> 00:14:11,559 - Uh-huh. 260 00:14:11,601 --> 00:14:14,312 And to prepare this, you have to be very careful 261 00:14:14,354 --> 00:14:15,896 because if you don't do it right, 262 00:14:15,938 --> 00:14:17,691 - then you get itchy mouth. - Toxic, right. 263 00:14:17,732 --> 00:14:18,899 No, no, not toxic. 264 00:14:18,941 --> 00:14:20,568 - You won't die from it but... - Right. 265 00:14:20,610 --> 00:14:22,903 It makes your mouth really itchy, so... 266 00:14:22,945 --> 00:14:24,155 Interesting. 267 00:14:24,197 --> 00:14:27,617 ♪ 268 00:14:28,951 --> 00:14:29,910 Mmm. 269 00:14:29,952 --> 00:14:31,912 Wow, that's delicious. 270 00:14:31,954 --> 00:14:33,516 When people talk about Vietnam, they always say 271 00:14:33,540 --> 00:14:37,126 about spring rolls or pho, but I think this should be 272 00:14:37,127 --> 00:14:38,294 in... in the mix. 273 00:14:38,336 --> 00:14:39,920 - In the mix? 274 00:14:39,921 --> 00:14:42,089 - Yeah, in... I'm easy. 275 00:14:42,090 --> 00:14:44,801 Give me some spicy noodles, some pork, 276 00:14:42,131 --> 00:14:44,801 I'm happy every time. 277 00:14:44,843 --> 00:14:46,886 Get out of here. 278 00:14:47,970 --> 00:14:51,599 ♪ 279 00:14:54,853 --> 00:14:55,936 Hello. 280 00:14:58,022 --> 00:15:00,983 ♪ 281 00:15:28,010 --> 00:15:30,971 ♪ 282 00:15:33,015 --> 00:15:35,602 It's a maze of narrow streets and alleyways 283 00:15:35,643 --> 00:15:38,187 behind the old French cathedral. 284 00:15:38,229 --> 00:15:42,191 ♪ 285 00:15:44,402 --> 00:15:48,448 Vendors set up stools, and it's happy hour in Hanoi. 286 00:15:58,416 --> 00:16:01,628 ♪ 287 00:16:02,712 --> 00:16:07,007 Every doorway, every window, a little slice of life. 288 00:16:07,049 --> 00:16:10,010 ♪ 289 00:16:16,434 --> 00:16:18,018 A story all its own. 290 00:16:18,060 --> 00:16:22,064 Lives lived, being lived, caught for a second, 291 00:16:22,106 --> 00:16:25,067 a moment, then gone. 292 00:16:27,528 --> 00:16:30,615 In Vietnam sometime, to be truly friend, 293 00:16:30,657 --> 00:16:32,826 - to be friendly... - Yeah. 294 00:16:32,867 --> 00:16:35,035 We have to drink until we a drunk. 295 00:16:35,077 --> 00:16:36,203 Well, well, okay. 296 00:16:36,245 --> 00:16:37,663 - Yeah. 297 00:16:37,664 --> 00:16:39,081 -We must. We must. 298 00:16:40,500 --> 00:16:42,877 Cheer for friendship. 299 00:16:42,919 --> 00:16:45,463 Linh Dinh, my oldest friend in Vietnam 300 00:16:45,505 --> 00:16:46,673 from the very beginning. 301 00:16:46,714 --> 00:16:48,424 Many happy memories, my friend. 302 00:16:48,466 --> 00:16:52,052 We've been to Saigon, Can Tho, Nha Trang. 303 00:16:52,094 --> 00:16:54,681 He was my original minder for Vietnam's Ministry 304 00:16:54,722 --> 00:16:56,432 of Foreign Affairs. 305 00:16:56,474 --> 00:16:58,893 We became, in spite of his official responsibilities, 306 00:16:58,935 --> 00:16:59,998 -fast friends. 307 00:16:59,999 --> 00:17:01,061 - One, two, three. 308 00:17:03,356 --> 00:17:04,315 - Welcome back. - Welcome back. 309 00:17:04,357 --> 00:17:05,859 - Cheers. - Thank you. 310 00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:07,652 Linh has brought me to a great and proud 311 00:17:07,694 --> 00:17:10,697 and uniquely Hanoi tradition, Bia Hai. 312 00:17:10,738 --> 00:17:12,657 Bia Hai refers to the roadside joints 313 00:17:12,699 --> 00:17:15,493 where locals gather to consume keg-dispensed, 314 00:17:15,535 --> 00:17:17,871 freshly brewed draft beer. 315 00:17:17,912 --> 00:17:19,706 Oh, that's good. 316 00:17:19,747 --> 00:17:21,081 It's not strong at all, my friend. 317 00:17:21,123 --> 00:17:23,751 Just, like, between three to four percent. 318 00:17:23,793 --> 00:17:25,461 Ah, so we need to drink a lot. 319 00:17:25,503 --> 00:17:26,671 - Yeah. - Yeah. 320 00:17:26,713 --> 00:17:27,964 Cheer for Hanoi beer. 321 00:17:31,926 --> 00:17:34,094 ♪ 322 00:17:34,136 --> 00:17:36,305 It was something luxurious 30 years ago. 323 00:17:36,347 --> 00:17:37,724 - Yeah. - Right. 324 00:17:37,765 --> 00:17:39,117 - And now it's for everyone. - Yeah. 325 00:17:39,141 --> 00:17:40,894 - It's not expensive. - Right. 326 00:17:40,935 --> 00:17:42,687 - Ten thousand dong. 327 00:17:42,688 --> 00:17:44,522 - So that's... - Forty cents. 328 00:17:42,729 --> 00:17:44,522 - Forty, forty-five cents, yeah. 329 00:17:44,564 --> 00:17:46,106 - Forty-five cents a beer? - Yeah. 330 00:17:46,148 --> 00:17:47,483 I'll have another. 331 00:17:47,525 --> 00:17:49,109 I can afford that. 332 00:17:49,151 --> 00:17:52,739 ♪ 333 00:17:52,780 --> 00:17:54,532 The country's changed so much. 334 00:17:54,574 --> 00:17:57,493 When I first came, bicycles and motorbikes. 335 00:17:57,535 --> 00:17:58,557 -Now, lot of cars. 336 00:17:58,558 --> 00:17:59,579 - More cars. 337 00:17:59,620 --> 00:18:01,121 Yeah, now look, money. 338 00:18:01,163 --> 00:18:02,725 People are making mo... business is good. 339 00:18:02,749 --> 00:18:04,166 - Yeah. - Right? 340 00:18:04,208 --> 00:18:05,919 I mean, much, much, much more tourism 341 00:18:05,960 --> 00:18:07,712 - every year, yeah? - Yes, yes. 342 00:18:07,754 --> 00:18:11,131 People also enjoy life more. 343 00:18:11,173 --> 00:18:14,343 ♪ 344 00:18:41,829 --> 00:18:44,999 ♪ 345 00:19:19,450 --> 00:19:22,996 Search the globe, and you will find no other place 346 00:19:23,037 --> 00:19:26,415 that looks remotely like this. 347 00:19:26,457 --> 00:19:29,836 ♪ 348 00:19:38,511 --> 00:19:41,576 "Ha Long" means "where the dragon descends 349 00:19:41,577 --> 00:19:43,223 into the sea". 350 00:19:43,265 --> 00:19:44,976 And legend says that this is 351 00:19:44,977 --> 00:19:48,312 where a great dragon charged, protecting Vietnam 352 00:19:48,313 --> 00:19:49,897 from foreign invaders. 353 00:19:49,939 --> 00:19:53,233 War is a constant theme in Vietnamese mythology 354 00:19:53,275 --> 00:19:55,235 and history. 355 00:19:55,277 --> 00:19:58,447 The Chinese, the French, the Japanese, the Americans, 356 00:19:58,489 --> 00:20:01,408 the Cambodians, again the Chinese. 357 00:20:01,450 --> 00:20:04,871 ♪ 358 00:20:28,936 --> 00:20:30,730 ♪ 359 00:20:30,771 --> 00:20:33,315 Ha Long Bay has become, for better or worse, 360 00:20:33,357 --> 00:20:36,069 one of Vietnam's most visited destinations. 361 00:20:36,110 --> 00:20:38,196 ♪ 362 00:20:40,322 --> 00:20:42,282 Fortunately, this time of year anyway, 363 00:20:42,324 --> 00:20:44,014 you don't have to go too far 364 00:20:44,015 --> 00:20:47,287 to lose yourself in the past, find a quiet place 365 00:20:47,329 --> 00:20:50,290 where you can still imagine the great dragon's 366 00:20:50,291 --> 00:20:52,251 tail thrashing and churning and kicking up 367 00:20:52,252 --> 00:20:54,170 these great karsts of rock. 368 00:20:54,212 --> 00:20:56,338 ♪ 369 00:20:58,716 --> 00:21:01,719 Chosen mode of transportation, the "Emeraude," 370 00:21:01,761 --> 00:21:05,180 an old French-era steamer refitted for more 371 00:21:05,181 --> 00:21:08,184 current-day needs. 372 00:21:08,226 --> 00:21:11,520 ♪ 373 00:21:11,562 --> 00:21:14,732 A big freaking boat. 374 00:21:14,774 --> 00:21:18,318 ♪ 375 00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:20,196 And it's all mine. 376 00:21:22,573 --> 00:21:24,992 Along with friends and crew, of course. 377 00:21:45,763 --> 00:21:48,182 ♪ 378 00:22:09,411 --> 00:22:10,537 I like this boat. 379 00:22:10,579 --> 00:22:11,974 We're living a little larger than last... 380 00:22:11,998 --> 00:22:15,375 Last time the boat was not this nice. 381 00:22:15,417 --> 00:22:17,190 All the modern conveniences 382 00:22:17,191 --> 00:22:18,963 but the charms of the past. 383 00:22:19,005 --> 00:22:22,549 It fits perfectly with my over-romantic delusions. 384 00:22:22,591 --> 00:22:26,179 And in general, it does not suck. 385 00:22:31,642 --> 00:22:33,019 Hello, gentlemen. 386 00:22:33,060 --> 00:22:34,603 - Hi, Tony. - How you doing? 387 00:22:34,645 --> 00:22:36,396 We've having some gin and tonic. 388 00:22:36,438 --> 00:22:39,275 Gin and tonic, traditional Vietnamese drink. 389 00:22:39,317 --> 00:22:40,860 Well, not really, but... all right. 390 00:22:40,901 --> 00:22:42,569 This my first time trying this. 391 00:22:42,611 --> 00:22:43,779 - Yeah? - His first time. 392 00:22:43,821 --> 00:22:45,405 How old are you anyway? 393 00:22:43,821 --> 00:22:46,782 Wait a minute, you were five years old last time 394 00:22:46,824 --> 00:22:47,867 I was in Ha Long Bay. 395 00:22:47,908 --> 00:22:49,389 -Yeah, just five. He 20 now. 396 00:22:49,390 --> 00:22:50,870 -Wow. 397 00:22:50,911 --> 00:22:53,330 Linh and I came here for another show what feels like 398 00:22:53,331 --> 00:22:55,208 a lifetime ago. 399 00:22:55,249 --> 00:22:57,417 Back then, I got to meet his son Minh, 400 00:22:57,459 --> 00:22:59,419 who's apparently grown up. 401 00:22:59,461 --> 00:23:01,588 These are pictures of you and him. 402 00:23:01,630 --> 00:23:04,424 - Whoa. - Fifteen years ago, fourteen years ago. 403 00:23:04,466 --> 00:23:06,426 Oh, my God. 404 00:23:06,468 --> 00:23:08,304 Look at my hair. 405 00:23:08,346 --> 00:23:10,430 ♪ 406 00:23:10,472 --> 00:23:11,682 It's changed a little bit. 407 00:23:11,724 --> 00:23:13,642 Like over eight million people 408 00:23:13,684 --> 00:23:15,102 are coming to Ha Long Bay now? 409 00:23:15,144 --> 00:23:17,604 Yeah, every year, tourists. 410 00:23:20,482 --> 00:23:21,710 All of this is protected, right? 411 00:23:21,734 --> 00:23:23,819 You can't do anything on these rocks. 412 00:23:23,861 --> 00:23:25,112 - No. - No, no. 413 00:23:25,154 --> 00:23:28,448 And how many of these islands... is it 1,900 414 00:23:26,488 --> 00:23:28,448 of these rocks out there? 415 00:23:28,490 --> 00:23:30,910 One thousand nine hundred and sixty-nine, 416 00:23:30,951 --> 00:23:33,246 and this is a good number, you know? 417 00:23:33,287 --> 00:23:34,455 It's a lucky number? 418 00:23:34,456 --> 00:23:35,622 - Six is for fortune. 419 00:23:35,664 --> 00:23:37,457 - Right. 420 00:23:35,664 --> 00:23:39,043 - And nine is for forever, so fortune forever. 421 00:23:39,085 --> 00:23:40,502 ♪ 422 00:23:40,544 --> 00:23:44,464 A drink or two on the top deck, check. 423 00:23:44,506 --> 00:23:47,509 Now for the rest of the day trying to do 424 00:23:47,510 --> 00:23:49,469 as little as possible. 425 00:23:49,511 --> 00:23:55,142 A nap, sunset, maybe some more drinks, 426 00:23:55,184 --> 00:23:57,895 and what about dinner? 427 00:23:57,937 --> 00:23:59,001 - One for you. 428 00:23:59,002 --> 00:24:00,064 - Oh, thank you, sir. 429 00:24:00,106 --> 00:24:01,628 - Cheer, my friend. 430 00:24:01,629 --> 00:24:03,150 - Cheers. 431 00:24:03,192 --> 00:24:04,944 So we're eating some squid? 432 00:24:04,985 --> 00:24:06,236 - Tons of squid. 433 00:24:06,237 --> 00:24:07,487 -Tons of squid? 434 00:24:07,529 --> 00:24:11,491 We try to get as many tons as possible. 435 00:24:11,533 --> 00:24:13,786 Cue the majesty of the squid. 436 00:24:17,331 --> 00:24:19,125 At night this time of year, the bright lights 437 00:24:19,166 --> 00:24:21,919 of Ha Long Bay's fishing boats are unmistakable. 438 00:24:21,961 --> 00:24:24,504 They can only catch the squid in the evening. 439 00:24:24,546 --> 00:24:27,029 The light attract the squid - so they can catch them. 440 00:24:27,030 --> 00:24:28,092 - Right. 441 00:24:28,134 --> 00:24:30,136 They say that because of global warming, 442 00:24:30,177 --> 00:24:32,679 all the fish are dying but that the squid 443 00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:34,890 and cuttlefish populations are increasing, 444 00:24:34,932 --> 00:24:36,725 so soon the whole sea will be 445 00:24:36,726 --> 00:24:38,518 filled with plenty of squid. 446 00:24:38,560 --> 00:24:39,937 We'll be eating it every day. 447 00:24:39,979 --> 00:24:43,190 ♪ 448 00:24:48,988 --> 00:24:51,949 Oh, yeah, those are cute, little squid. 449 00:24:51,991 --> 00:24:54,160 Oh, those are gonna be tender. 450 00:24:54,201 --> 00:24:55,911 - Ooh. - Mmm. 451 00:24:55,953 --> 00:24:58,414 Oh, yeah, the tentacles are the best. 452 00:24:58,456 --> 00:25:00,333 To catch squid is a very hard job. 453 00:25:00,374 --> 00:25:01,458 - They work all the night. 454 00:25:01,459 --> 00:25:02,542 - All the night. 455 00:25:02,584 --> 00:25:05,144 - They work all the night. - The light, it turn on all the night. 456 00:25:05,171 --> 00:25:07,214 Right, and then sleep all day? 457 00:25:07,256 --> 00:25:09,425 - Yeah. - It's got to be hot out there, man, 458 00:25:09,467 --> 00:25:10,759 - sleeping in the day. - Yeah. 459 00:25:10,801 --> 00:25:11,865 -Cheer for the day. 460 00:25:11,866 --> 00:25:12,928 - Cheers for the day. 461 00:25:12,970 --> 00:25:16,182 ♪ 462 00:25:18,767 --> 00:25:21,979 ♪ 463 00:25:59,058 --> 00:26:00,434 ♪ 464 00:26:00,476 --> 00:26:06,190 A morning swim, a bowl of spicy noodles, and a view, 465 00:26:06,232 --> 00:26:07,191 perfect. 466 00:26:07,233 --> 00:26:10,568 ♪ 467 00:26:19,495 --> 00:26:20,787 How many in the family? 468 00:26:20,829 --> 00:26:23,623 Six. Young couple and their three kids 469 00:26:23,665 --> 00:26:26,210 and then the grandma is living with them. 470 00:26:26,252 --> 00:26:27,420 The oldest kid is a girl, 471 00:26:27,461 --> 00:26:29,650 and she was sent into the shore with some relatives 472 00:26:29,651 --> 00:26:31,966 to go to school -because they have no schooling here. 473 00:26:31,967 --> 00:26:33,259 -Right. 474 00:26:33,300 --> 00:26:34,843 ♪ 475 00:26:34,885 --> 00:26:38,055 Floating fishing villages like this used to be found 476 00:26:38,056 --> 00:26:39,432 in nearly every sheltered cove 477 00:26:39,473 --> 00:26:41,641 or corner of Ha Long Bay. 478 00:26:41,683 --> 00:26:43,164 But as Vietnam becomes a more 479 00:26:43,165 --> 00:26:44,644 popular tourist destination, 480 00:26:44,686 --> 00:26:48,482 authentic fishing villages are starting to disappear. 481 00:26:48,524 --> 00:26:49,709 The government has been relocating 482 00:26:49,733 --> 00:26:53,570 fishing families inland, hoping to minimize 483 00:26:53,571 --> 00:26:55,655 their ecological impact. 484 00:26:55,697 --> 00:26:58,451 The people living on floating villages, 485 00:26:58,492 --> 00:27:00,974 they're just generally nice and willing to open 486 00:27:00,975 --> 00:27:03,685 their home to us and... - They basically farm oysters? 487 00:27:03,686 --> 00:27:05,082 -Yeah, yeah. 488 00:27:05,124 --> 00:27:06,896 A lot of pearls for sale in Ha Long Bay 489 00:27:06,897 --> 00:27:08,668 and in Vietnam. 490 00:27:08,710 --> 00:27:11,547 They come from places like this. 491 00:27:11,589 --> 00:27:12,923 ♪ 492 00:27:12,965 --> 00:27:15,675 It takes over a year to grow each pearl, 493 00:27:15,717 --> 00:27:17,490 and there's no guarantee 494 00:27:17,491 --> 00:27:19,263 an oyster will even yield one. 495 00:27:19,305 --> 00:27:22,640 ♪ 496 00:27:24,560 --> 00:27:26,479 Water spinach, I think that's called, right? 497 00:27:26,520 --> 00:27:27,896 Water spinach. 498 00:27:27,938 --> 00:27:29,940 ♪ 499 00:27:29,982 --> 00:27:31,942 That's the most common vegetable for Vietnamese 500 00:27:31,984 --> 00:27:33,360 - in the summertime. - Yes. 501 00:27:33,402 --> 00:27:34,736 - Mm-hmm. - Yeah. 502 00:27:34,778 --> 00:27:36,947 ♪ 503 00:27:36,989 --> 00:27:38,949 What kind of fish are these? 504 00:27:40,784 --> 00:27:42,432 -Little fish? 505 00:27:42,433 --> 00:27:44,079 -Yeah, Ha Long fish. 506 00:27:44,121 --> 00:27:45,310 - Ha Long fish. 507 00:27:45,311 --> 00:27:46,499 - Yeah. 508 00:27:46,540 --> 00:27:48,584 ♪ 509 00:27:48,626 --> 00:27:49,960 It's delicious, yeah. 510 00:27:50,002 --> 00:27:51,962 - It's good fish. - Mmm. 511 00:27:52,004 --> 00:27:55,549 This is a pretty prime piece of real estate, 512 00:27:55,591 --> 00:27:56,734 and they've lived here how long? 513 00:27:56,758 --> 00:27:57,968 For many generations. 514 00:27:58,010 --> 00:28:01,451 This old grandma is 78 years old, and she said that 515 00:28:01,452 --> 00:28:02,889 her grandparents lived here 516 00:28:02,931 --> 00:28:04,829 before this all become, like, 517 00:28:04,830 --> 00:28:06,726 a big tourist attraction. 518 00:28:06,768 --> 00:28:09,938 Is their situation protected by the state? 519 00:28:09,980 --> 00:28:11,773 They're allowed to live here by special... 520 00:28:11,815 --> 00:28:12,917 Because they've been here so long? 521 00:28:12,941 --> 00:28:16,903 Actually, the government now is encouraging them 522 00:28:16,904 --> 00:28:19,906 to move back to shore because it's better 523 00:28:16,945 --> 00:28:19,906 for their children's education. 524 00:28:19,948 --> 00:28:23,743 To tell the truth, we would like to move on land. 525 00:28:23,785 --> 00:28:26,413 If the government did offer us anything, 526 00:28:26,455 --> 00:28:29,124 then we should take it. 527 00:28:29,166 --> 00:28:33,962 But right now we would need help to live ashore. 528 00:28:34,004 --> 00:28:36,756 For someone like me who isn't educated 529 00:28:36,757 --> 00:28:38,758 and got skilled in the kind of work on land... 530 00:28:38,800 --> 00:28:40,969 I'm just used to working on the ocean, fishing... 531 00:28:41,011 --> 00:28:43,993 They said that they're happy to move back because it's 532 00:28:43,994 --> 00:28:45,182 better for their children, 533 00:28:45,224 --> 00:28:47,601 but they've been living here for many centuries, 534 00:28:47,643 --> 00:28:49,562 and all they know is just fishing. 535 00:28:49,603 --> 00:28:50,604 Right. 536 00:28:54,858 --> 00:28:58,028 ♪ 537 00:29:12,834 --> 00:29:16,380 Just another day in paradise. 538 00:29:16,422 --> 00:29:19,592 A tropical downpour in a working class neighborhood 539 00:29:19,633 --> 00:29:21,677 on the outskirts of Hanoi. 540 00:29:21,719 --> 00:29:24,846 ♪ 541 00:29:26,098 --> 00:29:29,184 The lady selling vegetables and gum and cigarettes 542 00:29:29,226 --> 00:29:32,605 taking a nap under a piece of corrugated tin 543 00:29:32,646 --> 00:29:35,815 has no idea what's about to happen. 544 00:29:35,857 --> 00:29:37,234 Turn around for me, sir. 545 00:29:43,657 --> 00:29:44,491 Thank you. 546 00:29:44,533 --> 00:29:46,993 ♪ 547 00:29:47,035 --> 00:29:50,247 ♪ 548 00:29:54,293 --> 00:29:57,671 ♪ Paid the cost to be the boss ♪ 549 00:29:59,256 --> 00:30:04,219 ♪ Look at me ♪ You know what you see 550 00:30:04,261 --> 00:30:06,221 ♪ You see a bad mutha 551 00:30:08,890 --> 00:30:13,853 ♪ Look at me ♪ You know what you see 552 00:30:13,895 --> 00:30:17,774 ♪ You see a bad mutha -Mr. President. 553 00:30:17,775 --> 00:30:19,025 -Good to see you. 554 00:30:19,067 --> 00:30:20,653 Good to see you. 555 00:30:20,694 --> 00:30:22,446 Mr. President, how are you liking Vietnam? 556 00:30:22,488 --> 00:30:23,739 Love it. 557 00:30:23,781 --> 00:30:26,325 Markets like these I grew up with. 558 00:30:26,366 --> 00:30:29,307 When I was a kid in Jakarta, these were basically 559 00:30:29,308 --> 00:30:30,663 the only markets available. 560 00:30:30,704 --> 00:30:32,872 You know, you would buy pretty much everything 561 00:30:32,914 --> 00:30:34,667 in stalls like this. 562 00:30:34,708 --> 00:30:35,893 Yeah, I wouldn't mind going in there 563 00:30:35,917 --> 00:30:38,878 and haggling and seeing what I could find. 564 00:30:38,920 --> 00:30:40,880 This country, when I first arrived here, 565 00:30:40,922 --> 00:30:43,883 it smelled like a place that I would like. 566 00:30:43,925 --> 00:30:46,345 Certain countries just... pheromonically, 567 00:30:46,386 --> 00:30:48,888 - they just smell good, and I know they're - gonna be good. 568 00:30:48,930 --> 00:30:50,890 Do you... do you kind of smell that? 569 00:30:50,932 --> 00:30:53,435 You know, there's certain spices that you can smell 570 00:30:53,436 --> 00:30:55,854 in certain countries that you just don't 571 00:30:55,855 --> 00:30:56,896 smell back home. 572 00:30:56,938 --> 00:31:00,025 Now, you know, there are some smells that aren't 573 00:31:00,026 --> 00:31:02,361 as appealing as well, but that's part of the mix. 574 00:31:02,402 --> 00:31:04,070 - It is indeed. - So, yeah. 575 00:31:04,112 --> 00:31:05,739 ♪ 576 00:31:05,781 --> 00:31:09,075 ♪ Head for the turnaround How you doing, guys? 577 00:31:09,117 --> 00:31:10,577 How are you? 578 00:31:10,619 --> 00:31:12,746 ♪ Heading for the turnaround 579 00:31:15,541 --> 00:31:17,292 I love you, Obama! 580 00:31:17,334 --> 00:31:20,754 ♪ 581 00:31:27,135 --> 00:31:30,347 ♪ 582 00:31:35,977 --> 00:31:39,815 There's something magical about the smell. 583 00:31:39,857 --> 00:31:41,941 The minute you touch down here, 584 00:31:41,983 --> 00:31:45,362 it grabs you, captivates you, and chances are, 585 00:31:45,363 --> 00:31:46,946 it holds you forever. 586 00:31:46,988 --> 00:31:49,991 I'm not the first to feel this way. 587 00:31:58,458 --> 00:32:01,628 There is no better place to entertain the leader 588 00:32:01,629 --> 00:32:03,963 of the free world, in my opinion, 589 00:32:01,670 --> 00:32:03,963 than one of these classic, 590 00:32:04,005 --> 00:32:05,883 funky, family-run noodle shops 591 00:32:05,884 --> 00:32:07,760 you find all over Hanoi. 592 00:32:07,801 --> 00:32:10,970 Dinner and a beer cost about six dollars. 593 00:32:11,012 --> 00:32:12,972 I'm guessing the President doesn't get a lot 594 00:32:13,014 --> 00:32:15,768 of state dinners like this. 595 00:32:15,809 --> 00:32:18,937 ♪ 596 00:32:21,815 --> 00:32:24,777 How often do you get to sneak out for a beer? 597 00:32:24,818 --> 00:32:26,152 Very rarely. 598 00:32:26,194 --> 00:32:29,197 First of all, I don't get to sneak out, period. 599 00:32:29,239 --> 00:32:33,034 But the... once in a while, I'll take Michelle out 600 00:32:33,035 --> 00:32:34,035 on a date night. 601 00:32:34,077 --> 00:32:36,996 The problem is part of enjoying a restaurant 602 00:32:37,038 --> 00:32:38,998 is sitting with other patrons 603 00:32:39,040 --> 00:32:42,211 and enjoying the atmosphere, and too often 604 00:32:42,212 --> 00:32:43,587 we end up getting shunted 605 00:32:43,629 --> 00:32:45,631 into one of those private rooms in the back. 606 00:32:45,672 --> 00:32:47,006 Well, I'm glad I could help, 607 00:32:47,048 --> 00:32:48,610 and to many more cold beers, Mr. President. 608 00:32:48,634 --> 00:32:50,009 I appreciate it, absolutely. 609 00:32:52,053 --> 00:32:53,179 Mmm. 610 00:32:53,221 --> 00:32:56,308 ♪ 611 00:33:01,855 --> 00:33:04,065 All right, you're gonna have to... I will walk you 612 00:33:02,856 --> 00:33:04,065 through it. 613 00:33:04,107 --> 00:33:05,668 You're gonna have to walk me through this. 614 00:33:05,692 --> 00:33:09,613 We're about to eat bun cha... ♪ 615 00:33:09,655 --> 00:33:13,388 And it is about as typical and uniquely a Hanoi dish 616 00:33:13,389 --> 00:33:14,910 as there is. 617 00:33:14,952 --> 00:33:17,078 These beautiful little pork patties, 618 00:33:17,120 --> 00:33:19,038 some grilled pork belly. 619 00:33:19,080 --> 00:33:22,208 Bun cha is served in a broth of vinegar, sugar, 620 00:33:22,250 --> 00:33:25,670 and the ubiquitous nuoc mam, or Vietnamese 621 00:33:25,671 --> 00:33:27,255 fermented fish sauce. 622 00:33:27,297 --> 00:33:29,424 Chilies to taste. 623 00:33:29,466 --> 00:33:31,510 I mean, if you have an important state 624 00:33:31,511 --> 00:33:33,219 function after, you might not want 625 00:33:31,551 --> 00:33:33,219 to go too heavy on it. 626 00:33:33,261 --> 00:33:35,221 - You know what? - I'm going with this thing. 627 00:33:35,263 --> 00:33:38,057 You know, we're gonna do what's appropriate. 628 00:33:38,099 --> 00:33:39,935 - Vinegar. - All right. 629 00:33:39,977 --> 00:33:41,854 And then you just hack off noodles, 630 00:33:41,895 --> 00:33:44,063 and just drop them into your bowl. 631 00:33:44,105 --> 00:33:47,066 Yeah, it's not too elegant, but I'm managing. 632 00:33:47,108 --> 00:33:49,903 And you dip and stir and get ready 633 00:33:49,904 --> 00:33:50,904 for the awesomeness. 634 00:33:50,946 --> 00:33:52,071 I'm ready. 635 00:33:52,113 --> 00:33:54,073 Now, is it appropriate to just pop 636 00:33:54,115 --> 00:33:55,677 one of these whole suckers in your mouth? 637 00:33:55,701 --> 00:33:57,744 Or do you think that you should be a little more... 638 00:33:57,786 --> 00:33:59,913 Well, slurping is totally acceptable 639 00:33:59,955 --> 00:34:02,081 - in this part of the world. - Oh, is it? 640 00:34:02,123 --> 00:34:03,917 It takes some skills, by the way, 641 00:34:03,959 --> 00:34:06,085 to handle these sticky, cold noodles. 642 00:34:06,127 --> 00:34:10,089 But whatever your opinion of the man, the President 643 00:34:10,090 --> 00:34:11,320 has those skills... -Mmm. 644 00:34:11,321 --> 00:34:12,509 - I got to say. 645 00:34:12,551 --> 00:34:14,111 - This is killer. - This is outstanding. 646 00:34:14,135 --> 00:34:15,697 - That's so good to hear. - It's really good. 647 00:34:15,721 --> 00:34:18,911 And we share, apparently, a sentimentality 648 00:34:18,912 --> 00:34:22,268 about Asian street food and Southeast Asia in general. 649 00:34:22,310 --> 00:34:26,356 One of my favorite meals of all time, there's an area 650 00:34:26,398 --> 00:34:30,548 between Jakarta and Bandung, another city in Indonesia 651 00:34:30,549 --> 00:34:33,780 called Puncak, and it's up through the mountains. 652 00:34:33,822 --> 00:34:36,282 So you'd have these roadside restaurants 653 00:34:36,324 --> 00:34:39,285 overlooking the tea fields. 654 00:34:39,327 --> 00:34:40,913 There'd be a river running 655 00:34:40,954 --> 00:34:43,122 through the restaurant itself, 656 00:34:40,954 --> 00:34:43,957 and there'd be these fish, these carp that would be 657 00:34:43,958 --> 00:34:46,001 running through, and you'd pick the fish. 658 00:34:46,043 --> 00:34:48,670 They'd grab it for you and fry it up, and the skin 659 00:34:48,671 --> 00:34:51,590 would be real crispy, and they just served it 660 00:34:51,591 --> 00:34:54,009 with a bed of rice, and it was 661 00:34:54,010 --> 00:34:55,677 the simplest meal possible, and nothing 662 00:34:55,678 --> 00:34:57,303 tasted so good. 663 00:34:57,345 --> 00:34:59,014 ♪ 664 00:34:59,056 --> 00:35:01,516 Now, as a Chicagoan... Trickier question 665 00:35:01,558 --> 00:35:03,602 fraught with peril. 666 00:35:03,643 --> 00:35:06,021 Is ketchup on a hot dog ever acceptable? 667 00:35:06,063 --> 00:35:07,188 No. 668 00:35:07,230 --> 00:35:08,314 No, I re... I mean that. 669 00:35:08,356 --> 00:35:09,942 That's one of those things like... 670 00:35:09,983 --> 00:35:11,150 Well, let me put it this way. 671 00:35:11,192 --> 00:35:13,028 It's not acceptable past the age of eight. 672 00:35:13,070 --> 00:35:15,530 My daughter's eight, and she put ketchup on eggs 673 00:35:15,572 --> 00:35:18,408 the other day, and I... I wi... I didn't know 674 00:35:18,409 --> 00:35:21,160 what the good... What good parenting 675 00:35:18,450 --> 00:35:21,160 called for at this point. 676 00:35:21,202 --> 00:35:23,162 - An intervention. - I think so. 677 00:35:23,204 --> 00:35:25,040 I think you just got to say, "You know what? 678 00:35:25,082 --> 00:35:26,124 That's not acceptable. 679 00:35:26,125 --> 00:35:27,166 I'm sorry." 680 00:35:27,208 --> 00:35:30,128 ♪ 681 00:35:35,884 --> 00:35:39,178 We are at a point where we seem to be turning inwards. 682 00:35:39,220 --> 00:35:42,433 I mean, we're actually talking about building a wall 683 00:35:42,434 --> 00:35:43,767 around our country. 684 00:35:43,809 --> 00:35:46,645 And yet you have been reaching out to people 685 00:35:46,686 --> 00:35:48,563 who don't necessarily agree with us... 686 00:35:48,605 --> 00:35:52,025 Gaza, Iran, Cuba. 687 00:35:52,067 --> 00:35:55,194 - I mean, I just wish that more Americans - had passports. 688 00:35:55,236 --> 00:35:58,031 The extent of what you can see how other people live 689 00:35:58,073 --> 00:36:01,639 seems useful at worst and incredibly pleasurable 690 00:36:01,640 --> 00:36:03,202 and interesting at best. 691 00:36:03,244 --> 00:36:07,019 It confirms the basic truth that people everywhere 692 00:36:07,020 --> 00:36:10,627 are pretty much the same, the same hopes and dreams, 693 00:36:10,669 --> 00:36:12,378 and when you come to a place like Vietnam 694 00:36:12,420 --> 00:36:16,382 and you see former American Vietnam vets coming back, 695 00:36:16,424 --> 00:36:17,905 when you see somebody like 696 00:36:17,906 --> 00:36:19,385 a John Kerry or a John McCain, 697 00:36:19,427 --> 00:36:21,242 two very different people 698 00:36:21,243 --> 00:36:23,056 politically and temperamentally, 699 00:36:23,098 --> 00:36:26,852 but who were able to bond in their experience 700 00:36:26,893 --> 00:36:29,228 of meeting with their former adversaries 701 00:36:29,270 --> 00:36:32,398 and you don't make peace with your friends. 702 00:36:32,440 --> 00:36:34,233 You make peace with your enemies. 703 00:36:34,275 --> 00:36:37,696 ♪ 704 00:36:39,447 --> 00:36:43,242 As a father of a young girl, is it all gonna be okay? 705 00:36:43,284 --> 00:36:44,911 It's all gonna work out? 706 00:36:44,912 --> 00:36:46,830 My daughter will be able to come here 707 00:36:44,953 --> 00:36:46,830 in five years, ten years? 708 00:36:46,872 --> 00:36:48,832 She'll be able to have a bowl of bun cha, 709 00:36:48,874 --> 00:36:50,917 and the world will be a better place? 710 00:36:50,959 --> 00:36:52,836 Yeah. 711 00:36:50,959 --> 00:36:54,504 I mean, I think progress is not a straight line. 712 00:36:54,546 --> 00:36:56,089 You know, there are gonna be moments 713 00:36:56,131 --> 00:37:00,281 at any given part of the world where things 714 00:37:00,282 --> 00:37:02,428 are terrible. 715 00:37:02,470 --> 00:37:05,891 But having said all that... 716 00:37:06,975 --> 00:37:10,269 I think things are gonna work out. 717 00:37:10,311 --> 00:37:12,064 - Thank you so much. - Cheers. 718 00:37:12,105 --> 00:37:13,272 Cheers. 719 00:37:14,691 --> 00:37:18,945 [woman sings a cappella in native language] 720 00:37:29,122 --> 00:37:31,958 ♪ 721 00:37:32,000 --> 00:37:34,502 The vast majority of this country 722 00:37:34,544 --> 00:37:36,088 don't remember the American War. 723 00:37:36,129 --> 00:37:37,527 -They don't remember any war. 724 00:37:37,528 --> 00:37:38,924 -No. 725 00:37:38,965 --> 00:37:40,508 You used to be a tour guide? 726 00:37:40,550 --> 00:37:41,614 -Yes. 727 00:37:41,615 --> 00:37:42,677 - For how many years? 728 00:37:42,719 --> 00:37:43,825 -Fifteen years. 729 00:37:43,826 --> 00:37:44,930 - Fifteen years? 730 00:37:44,971 --> 00:37:47,891 I know you have to bring people over to the museum, 731 00:37:47,933 --> 00:37:50,351 the American War museum, what, every time, right? 732 00:37:50,393 --> 00:37:51,811 Yup. 733 00:37:54,522 --> 00:37:57,316 In your lifetime, is there gonna be a time 734 00:37:57,358 --> 00:38:00,319 when that's not gonna have to be a stop? 735 00:38:00,361 --> 00:38:02,572 It won't be necessary, it won't even be important, 736 00:38:02,614 --> 00:38:03,907 no one will remember? 737 00:38:03,949 --> 00:38:05,324 Or should people always remember? 738 00:38:05,366 --> 00:38:08,391 I think it's good to remember so we don't make 739 00:38:08,392 --> 00:38:09,537 the same mistake, you know? 740 00:38:09,579 --> 00:38:12,958 Some people choose to be angry, to hold grudge. 741 00:38:12,999 --> 00:38:15,376 But then some people chose to let go 742 00:38:15,418 --> 00:38:18,713 and... for the peace inside themself. 743 00:38:18,755 --> 00:38:21,549 That's up to the person. 744 00:38:21,591 --> 00:38:24,302 And I think it's good that... 745 00:38:30,391 --> 00:38:34,062 It's important that we know about history. 746 00:38:39,067 --> 00:38:41,861 And to make sure it's never happen again. 747 00:38:52,580 --> 00:38:57,169 I met a lot of war veterans, and surprisingly, 748 00:38:57,210 --> 00:39:00,421 a lot of them don't feel... Don't have any anger 749 00:39:00,463 --> 00:39:07,095 against their old enemies... ♪ 750 00:39:11,099 --> 00:39:13,643 And that's... that's amazing. 751 00:39:13,685 --> 00:39:15,603 That's... that is amazing. 752 00:39:15,645 --> 00:39:18,397 I learned so much from them. 753 00:39:18,439 --> 00:39:21,693 ♪ 754 00:39:33,830 --> 00:39:37,125 ♪ 755 00:39:40,461 --> 00:39:44,049 For Vietnamese, we have so many legends. 756 00:39:44,090 --> 00:39:46,634 But the majority of legends related to our tradition 757 00:39:46,676 --> 00:39:49,428 - of fighting against foreign invaders... - Uh-hmm. 758 00:39:49,470 --> 00:39:51,430 And to protect our country. 759 00:39:51,472 --> 00:39:54,726 ♪ 760 00:39:58,479 --> 00:40:01,024 Over the last 20 years of my life, 761 00:40:01,066 --> 00:40:04,277 I've seen a lot of changes. 762 00:40:04,319 --> 00:40:07,446 And we know that there's still a lot of shortcoming... 763 00:40:08,698 --> 00:40:12,118 ♪ 764 00:40:14,287 --> 00:40:16,039 But everything needs time. 765 00:40:16,081 --> 00:40:17,332 We need to be patient. 766 00:40:17,374 --> 00:40:20,022 We can't rush because we really don't want 767 00:40:20,023 --> 00:40:21,294 another war. 768 00:40:24,881 --> 00:40:27,988 General William Westmoreland, who commanded US forces 769 00:40:27,989 --> 00:40:30,929 here in the mid-'60s, famously said, 770 00:40:30,970 --> 00:40:34,891 "The Oriental doesn't put the same high price on life 771 00:40:34,933 --> 00:40:36,851 as does a Westerner. 772 00:40:36,893 --> 00:40:38,477 Life is plentiful. 773 00:40:38,519 --> 00:40:41,273 Life is cheap in the Orient." 774 00:40:41,314 --> 00:40:44,067 ♪ 775 00:40:44,109 --> 00:40:46,485 It was an extraordinarily grotesque 776 00:40:46,527 --> 00:40:49,135 and wrongheaded observation from a guy 777 00:40:49,136 --> 00:40:52,012 who, if nothing else, was expected to understand 778 00:40:52,013 --> 00:40:53,868 his enemy on the battlefield. 779 00:40:53,910 --> 00:40:57,496 He could not, it turned out, do even that. 780 00:40:57,538 --> 00:41:00,750 ♪ 781 00:41:04,129 --> 00:41:08,507 Maybe, I hope, we are a little bit smarter now. 782 00:41:08,549 --> 00:41:10,509 ♪ 783 00:41:13,554 --> 00:41:16,808 ♪ 784 00:41:55,263 --> 00:41:58,433 ♪